When I moved into my current place, I thought living close to a main road would be fine. I was wrong. The constant traffic noise, especially the hoons revving their engines at 2am and the trucks rumbling past at dawn, drove me absolutely mental for the first few months.

Street noise is one of those things you don’t really think about until you’re lying in bed at night and all you can hear is cars going past, pedestrian crossing beeps, or that one motorcycle that sounds like it’s missing a muffler. If you live near a busy road, train line, or even just have particularly loud neighbours, you’ll know exactly what I’m talking about.

The good news is that there are heaps of ways to reduce street noise coming through your windows, ranging from cheap DIY fixes you can do today to more permanent solutions that’ll make a massive difference. Let me walk you through everything I’ve learned about dealing with this annoying problem.

Why Windows Let So Much Noise In

Before we get into solutions, it helps to understand why windows are such terrible at keeping noise out. Your walls are usually pretty thick and well-insulated. Your windows, on the other hand, are basically just thin sheets of glass.

Sound travels through air, and it also travels through vibrations in solid objects. Single-pane windows do almost nothing to stop either. The glass itself vibrates when sound waves hit it, transmitting the noise straight into your room. And if your windows have any gaps, cracks, or poor seals (which most older windows do), sound just waltz right through those openings.

According to soundproofing specialists like Magnetite and Stop Noise Melbourne, windows are typically the greatest source of noise penetration in a building. You could have perfectly insulated walls, but if your windows are rubbish, you’re still going to hear everything outside.

The type of noise matters too. Cars and motorbikes produce medium to high-frequency sounds. Trucks and trains create lower frequency noise that’s harder to block. And then you’ve got things like pedestrian crossing beepers and reversing truck alarms that cut right through everything. Living near a train station or busy intersection means you’re dealing with all of it at once.

Quick and Cheap Fixes You Can Do Today

If you’re renting or just want to try something before committing to expensive solutions, there are several things you can do right now that’ll make at least some difference.

The absolute first thing you should do is seal any gaps around your windows. This is the advice that comes up again and again on Bunnings Workshop forums from people who’ve actually dealt with this problem. Use weatherstripping foam or acoustic sealant to fill any cracks where your window meets the wall or the sill.

One Bunnings community member mentioned they sealed their front door to stop air leaks and were immediately surprised at how much outside sounds dropped. The same principle applies to windows. Sound needs air to travel, so if you can stop air getting through, you stop a lot of sound too.

You can get weatherstripping foam tape from Bunnings for under $20. Just make sure you get the dense rubber stuff, not the light foam with holes in it. The dense material works much better for soundproofing.

Heavy curtains are another quick win. I’m not talking about your standard IKEA curtains. You want proper thermal or acoustic curtains with multiple layers. Triple weave fabric curtains will block some sound, though they work better for high-frequency noise than low rumbling sounds.

Some people swear by those specific acoustic curtains you can buy, though they’re not cheap. You’re looking at a couple hundred dollars for decent ones. But if you’ve already got curtain rods up, it’s an easy thing to try. Just be aware they won’t perform miracles. They’ll take the edge off the noise but won’t eliminate it completely.

The Furniture Trick

This sounds a bit silly but it genuinely helps. Heavy furniture near your windows absorbs some sound waves. A thick rug near the window, a heavy couch, or a big bookshelf full of books will all help dampen noise.

It’s not going to solve your problem by itself, but combined with other methods it makes a noticeable difference. Plus, you’re just rearranging stuff you already own, so it costs nothing to try.

DIY Secondary Glazing

If you’re handy and want to try something more substantial, DIY secondary glazing is worth considering. This is where you attach a sheet of acrylic, perspex, or even twin-wall polycarbonate to the inside of your existing window.

According to discussions on Bunnings Workshop, you can do this temporarily with double-sided tape, or make it more permanent by installing a simple frame. It’s basically creating your own version of double glazing by adding an extra layer with an air gap.

The effectiveness depends on the size of the air gap and the material you use. A bigger air gap is better (aim for at least 100mm if possible). Some people have had success with XPS foam insulation boards cut to size and fitted into the window frame when they need maximum noise reduction.

The downside is that it looks a bit rough, you lose some natural light, and you can’t open the window easily. But if you’re desperate and on a budget, it’s an option. And if you’re renting and can make it removable, even better.

Professional Secondary Glazing Systems

If DIY isn’t your thing, there are professional secondary glazing systems that do the same job but much better. Companies like Magnetite, Stop Noise Melbourne, and Soundproof Warehouse specialise in retrofitting secondary glazing to existing windows.

These systems work by installing a second pane of optical-grade acrylic on the inside of your existing window, creating an air cavity between the two layers. This is the key to reducing noise. That air gap, especially if it’s filled with argon gas, dramatically reduces sound transmission.

According to independent testing by the National Acoustic Laboratories, good secondary glazing can reduce noise by 50% to 70%. Customer reviews on these companies’ websites back this up, with people saying things like “street noise was reduced to nil” and “the barking dog noise was dramatically attenuated.”

The beauty of secondary glazing is that you keep your existing windows. This is important if you’re in a heritage building, strata apartment, or rental property where you can’t just rip out the original windows. It’s also way cheaper than replacing everything with new double-glazed windows, typically costing about half as much.

In Melbourne, Stop Noise has been doing this for about 29 years and they’re a family-owned business. In Sydney, companies like Soundproof Warehouse and Inner West Window Specialists offer similar services. Most of these companies will come out for a free consultation to assess your noise situation and recommend solutions.

Full Double-Glazed Window Replacement

If you own your home and want the most effective long-term solution, replacing your windows with proper double-glazed units is the way to go. Modern double-glazed windows can reduce external noise by up to 80% according to manufacturers like Winsulation and Bradnam’s.

Double glazing works through several mechanisms. You’ve got two panes of glass with an air or argon gas gap between them. The gas reduces sound vibration between the panes. The glass itself can be laminated or acoustic-grade, which dampens vibrations. And the frames are designed with thermal breaks and precision seals to prevent sound leakage.

But here’s the catch. Not all double glazing is equal. If the air gap is too small, if they use standard glass instead of acoustic glass, or if the installation is poor, you won’t get good results. You need at least a 10mm gap between panes, preferably more. Laminated or acoustic-grade glass makes a big difference. And the frames need to be properly insulated, not just cheap aluminium.

This is where it gets expensive. You’re probably looking at several thousand dollars per window for quality double glazing. But you’re also getting massive benefits beyond noise reduction including better insulation (which lowers your heating and cooling bills), increased home value, and improved comfort.

Companies like Winsulation, Windows Tech, and Coastal Windows and Doors specialise in double-glazed installations. Windows Tech even offers a 10% price beat guarantee if you find the same spec cheaper elsewhere.

What About Acoustic Blinds

Acoustic blinds are another option that sits somewhere between curtains and proper window treatments. They’re designed with materials that absorb sound rather than just blocking light.

I’ll be honest, I haven’t tried these myself, but the reviews are mixed. Some people find they help a bit, especially for high-frequency noise. Others say they’re not worth the money compared to just getting good curtains.

If you’re going down this path, look for blinds specifically marketed as acoustic or soundproof, not just standard roller blinds. They’ll be more expensive but they’re made with denser materials designed for noise reduction.

The Reality of Different Noise Types

Here’s something I wish I’d known earlier. Different types of noise are harder or easier to block. High-frequency sounds like voices, car horns, and bird noises are relatively easy to reduce. Low-frequency sounds like truck engines, bass from music, and train rumbles are much harder.

This is why some solutions work great for car noise but do nothing for the truck that drives past at 6am. If you’re dealing with a lot of low-frequency noise, you need more mass and better sealing. Standard curtains won’t cut it. You’ll need proper double glazing or secondary glazing with a decent air gap.

Companies like Quash Soundproofing actually come to your home to listen to what you’re hearing before recommending solutions. This makes sense because there’s no point spending thousands on a solution that won’t work for your specific noise problem.

Don’t Forget the Rest of Your House

Here’s a mistake people make. They spend a fortune soundproofing their windows and are disappointed when there’s still noise. That’s because sound comes through walls, doors, vents, and ceiling too.

If you’re in an apartment or a house with thin walls, you might need to address those as well. Wall vents are a common culprit. You can get acoustic vents that still allow airflow but reduce noise. Doors can be sealed with weatherstripping just like windows. And if you’re really struggling, ceiling insulation with acoustic batts can help.

One Bunnings community member shared that they had all their windows sealed properly but were still plagued by a noisy neighbour. They ended up putting sound insulating batts in the bedroom ceiling and that made a huge difference.

Think of it as a holistic approach. Your windows are probably the biggest source of noise, but they’re not the only one.

Rental Property Considerations

If you’re renting, your options are more limited but not hopeless. Most landlords won’t let you replace windows or install permanent secondary glazing. But you can absolutely do the temporary stuff.

Heavy curtains, weatherstripping, furniture placement, and removable DIY solutions are all fair game. Just make sure anything you attach can be removed without damaging the property.

Some renters have had success asking their landlords to install secondary glazing or upgrade windows, especially if the noise is really bad and affecting livability. It’s worth asking. The worst they can say is no, and they might actually agree if it adds value to the property.

Document the noise issue with recordings or a noise app that measures decibels. This can help make your case if you’re asking for improvements or if the noise is genuinely unreasonable.

Cost Breakdown

Let me give you a rough idea of what different solutions cost, based on what I’ve seen and researched.

Weatherstripping and acoustic sealant will run you about $20-50 per window. Heavy acoustic curtains cost $100-500 per window depending on size and quality. DIY secondary glazing with acrylic sheets is around $50-200 per window for materials. Professional secondary glazing systems cost roughly $500-1500 per window installed. Full double-glazed window replacement runs $1500-3000+ per window for quality units.

The cheapest options obviously have the least impact. Professional secondary glazing offers the best bang for your buck if you want significant noise reduction without full window replacement. Double glazing is the most expensive but also the most effective, plus you get energy efficiency benefits.

My Honest Opinion

After living with street noise and trying various solutions, here’s what I reckon. If the noise is just mildly annoying, start with the cheap stuff. Seal gaps, get heavy curtains, rearrange furniture. That might be enough.

If the noise is seriously affecting your sleep or quality of life, invest in professional secondary glazing or double glazing. Yes, it’s expensive. But being able to sleep properly and not feel stressed in your own home is worth it.

I went with secondary glazing on my bedroom windows and it made an enormous difference. I can still hear traffic if I really focus on it, but it’s gone from constantly intrusive to barely noticeable background noise. I sleep so much better now.

For rental properties, do what you can with temporary solutions and seriously consider asking your landlord about permanent improvements. Living with constant noise is miserable and it affects your health over time.

A 2025 Survey Says Noise is a Major Issue

This isn’t just in my head. A 2025 survey found that 38% of Australians cite excessive neighbourhood noise as a major pet peeve, and nearly one in three have had disagreements with neighbours over noise. Street noise might not be your neighbour’s fault, but it’s clearly a widespread problem.

The good news is that awareness is growing. More companies are offering soundproofing solutions, and the technology keeps improving. Retrofit secondary glazing systems are way better now than they were even five years ago.

When to Call in Professionals

If you’ve tried the DIY stuff and you’re still struggling, get professional advice. Most soundproofing companies offer free assessments where they’ll come out, measure the noise levels, identify where sound is coming from, and recommend solutions specific to your situation.

This is worth doing before you spend thousands on a solution that might not work. They’ve got experience with different types of noise and know what actually works versus what’s just marketing hype.

Stop Noise Melbourne, Magnetite, Soundproof Warehouse, and others all operate across major Australian cities. Their reviews are generally excellent and they’ve been in business for decades, which suggests they’re doing something right.

The Bottom Line

Street noise through windows is fixable. The question is just how much you want to spend and how much noise reduction you need.

Start with the cheap solutions. Seal gaps, add heavy curtains, move furniture around. See if that gets you to a comfortable level. If not, look into professional secondary glazing, which offers excellent results for reasonable cost.

Full window replacement with double glazing is the gold standard but only makes financial sense if you’re planning to stay put for years or if you’re doing major renovations anyway.

Your home should be a place where you can relax and sleep properly. If street noise is ruining that, it’s worth fixing. I spent years just putting up with it and trying to sleep through the noise. I wish I’d addressed it sooner because the difference it makes to your daily life is massive.

Don’t just accept that street noise is part of living in the city. With the right solutions, you can have a peaceful home even on a busy road.